G Manifesto tip of the week 10/5/05: Suits
The fashion world is very sharky waters, not for the faint of heart. This weeks’ tip will help the G navigate the Haute Couture designers specifically related to suits. This is a very good guide for the sartorial minded G.
Entry level: The two entry level price point designers are Burberry and Hugo Boss.
Burberry is based in London. Burberry is know for its distinctive check pattern, that has become one of its most common copied trademarks. Burberry was worn by Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca. (entry cost $750-1000)
Hugo Boss started in Metzingen, Germany, in 1923, only a few years after the end of WWI, while most of the country was in economic disarray. Before and during World War II, many people don’t know that Hugo Boss designed and manufactured clothing for the Nazi soldiers. Still, decent suits for a big night out….(and at the cost it won’t kill you if you spill a glass of Pinot Noir on it….)
Level II (the flash designers) Dolce & Gabbana is a high-end designer company owned by Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. The company is based in Milan.
Dolce and Gabbana is good for picking up flash foreign girls, especially Eastern Block Models and they make really dope ties. (Entry cost $1000-1400)
Gucci, or the House of Gucci, is an Italian haute couture establishment. It was founded by Guccio Gucci. Gucci was super dope thru the disco era then almost went bankrupt. In the 90’s it was almost overtaken by a leveraged buyout. Who really cares about all that, this stuff is some of the best gear for swooping on Latina models.
Versace. Is currently headed by Donatella Versace after the untimely passing of Gianni Versace. Gianni was brutally killed in front of his mansion in South Beach Miami by Lajolla’s Andrew Cunannnan. This event marks the only time where a San Diego Beach town has gotten the better of South Beach. Donatella is doing a good job of steering the ship and is a real sweetheart, if you have the pleasure know her personally as I do. It goes with out saying that Versace is good for connecting with girls in South Beach and Ibiza.
Level III—on its own Corneliani really pioneered using different colors. It is Mantova-based couturier (Northern Italy). For the price point (entry $1200) one of the best suits money can buy.
Level IV- the level I typically operate on day to day. Canali—These suits started in the 30’s, an era which American fashion expert Alan Flusser describes as “the height of elegance.” I tend to agree with him. Canali is based in Triuggio, which is in Northern Italy for those of you who are geographically challenged. Canali has most of its fabric loomed exclusively in the Biella region which, take my word for it, is a good thing. These suits are all-purpose for business and nights on the town in high style. (Entry cost $1100-2200). These suits and ties definitely pay for themselves in Gentleman’s’ Clubs……seriously….like ten fold (where else are you going to get a return like that? Wall Street?)
Zegna- Ermenegildo Zegna (pronounced “Zenya” not “Zeggna”….skippy) was founded in 1910 in Trivero, Italy which is also in Northern Italy. These suits ties and shirts don’t come cheap but are worth every penny. I actually wish they charged more. Most Zegna suits cost in the $2,000 – $3,000 range. Zegna’s top line is “Couture”, formerly known as “Napoli Couture.” These suits work good in Los Angeles and have been known to really work well with swooping actress chicks….don’t ask why. Also a good choice for racetracks.
Giorgio Armani is also Northern Italian. This stuff was big in the 80’s and was what they wore on Miami Vice. These suits are dope for sure and everyone needs to own at least one. (I own ten or eleven..) “The difference between style and fashion is quality”– Giorgio Armani
Level V-one notch below the best.
Kiton-Ciro Paone created the southern Italian powerhouse Kiton, a Greek term used to describe tunics worn by the leaders of ancient Hellenic society(that refers to ancient Greece….squeaky). Kiton is hard to find on the west coast. Neopolitan tailors have had a long history of tailoring for the monarchy and aristocracy. Kiton challenged Brioni and Canali, and raised the bar for using fine fabrics. This rivalry between the northern and southern Italian design houses pushed creativity that we can all be thankful for. I know I am, and I have thanked Ciro personally. These suits are impeccable.
Level VI- in a class by itself
Brioni—Brioni has always been for aristocrats. A quarter of the production consists of made-to-measure tailored suits for an elite 25,000 customers. I am happy to say I am one of them. Trump, James Bond(post 1995), Willie Brown, Royalty, John Gotti, and many successful Bank Robbers are also customers. Ready-to-wear suits run from $3,600 to $5,500, and the custom-tailored from $4,000 to $24,000. I have been telling them to raise their prices for years…….
Did you think I was going to recommend cheap suits? Do me a favor….A $200 suit looks like a cheap suit, but a $1000.00 suit makes you look like a Million Bucks…..that makes sense……Right? This should help every upwardly mobile G update their wardrobe……The Rest is up to you…..