G Manifesto tip of the week 10/5/05: Suits

» 06 October 2005 » In Guide, Style »

Demystifying The Top Fashion Designers:

Click Here to Buy Dressing the Man: Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion by Alan Flusser

Click Here to Buy Clothes and the Man: The Principles of Fine Men’s Dress by Alan Flusser

The fashion world is very sharky waters, not for the faint of heart. This weeks’ tip will help the G navigate the Haute Couture designers specifically related to suits. This is a very good guide for the sartorial minded G.

Entry level: The two entry level price point designers are Burberry and Hugo Boss.

Burberry is based in London. Burberry is know for its distinctive check pattern, that has become one of its most common copied trademarks. Burberry was worn by Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca. (entry cost $750-1000)

Hugo Boss started in Metzingen, Germany, in 1923, only a few years after the end of WWI, while most of the country was in economic disarray. Before and during World War II, many people don’t know that Hugo Boss designed and manufactured clothing for the Nazi soldiers. Still, decent suits for a big night out….(and at the cost it won’t kill you if you spill a glass of Pinot Noir on it….)

Level II (the flash designers) Dolce & Gabbana is a high-end designer company owned by Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. The company is based in Milan.

Click Here to Buy Dressing the Man: Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion by Alan Flusser

Click Here to Buy Clothes and the Man: The Principles of Fine Men’s Dress by Alan Flusser

Dolce and Gabbana is good for picking up flash foreign girls, especially Eastern Block Models and they make really dope ties. (Entry cost $1000-1400)

Gucci, or the House of Gucci, is an Italian haute couture establishment. It was founded by Guccio Gucci. Gucci was super dope thru the disco era then almost went bankrupt. In the 90’s it was almost overtaken by a leveraged buyout. Who really cares about all that, this stuff is some of the best gear for swooping on Latina models.

Versace. Is currently headed by Donatella Versace after the untimely passing of Gianni Versace. Gianni was brutally killed in front of his mansion in South Beach Miami by Lajolla’s Andrew Cunannnan. This event marks the only time where a San Diego Beach town has gotten the better of South Beach. Donatella is doing a good job of steering the ship and is a real sweetheart, if you have the pleasure know her personally as I do. It goes with out saying that Versace is good for connecting with girls in South Beach and Ibiza.

Level III—on its own Corneliani really pioneered using different colors. It is Mantova-based couturier (Northern Italy). For the price point (entry $1200) one of the best suits money can buy.

Level IV- the level I typically operate on day to day. Canali—These suits started in the 30’s, an era which American fashion expert Alan Flusser describes as “the height of elegance.” I tend to agree with him. Canali is based in Triuggio, which is in Northern Italy for those of you who are geographically challenged. Canali has most of its fabric loomed exclusively in the Biella region which, take my word for it, is a good thing. These suits are all-purpose for business and nights on the town in high style. (Entry cost $1100-2200). These suits and ties definitely pay for themselves in Gentleman’s’ Clubs……seriously….like ten fold (where else are you going to get a return like that? Wall Street?)

Zegna- Ermenegildo Zegna (pronounced “Zenya” not “Zeggna”….skippy) was founded in 1910 in Trivero, Italy which is also in Northern Italy. These suits ties and shirts don’t come cheap but are worth every penny. I actually wish they charged more. Most Zegna suits cost in the $2,000 – $3,000 range. Zegna’s top line is “Couture”, formerly known as “Napoli Couture.” These suits work good in Los Angeles and have been known to really work well with swooping actress chicks….don’t ask why. Also a good choice for racetracks.

Giorgio Armani is also Northern Italian. This stuff was big in the 80’s and was what they wore on Miami Vice. These suits are dope for sure and everyone needs to own at least one. (I own ten or eleven..) “The difference between style and fashion is quality”– Giorgio Armani

Level V-one notch below the best.

Kiton-Ciro Paone created the southern Italian powerhouse Kiton, a Greek term used to describe tunics worn by the leaders of ancient Hellenic society(that refers to ancient Greece….squeaky). Kiton is hard to find on the west coast. Neopolitan tailors have had a long history of tailoring for the monarchy and aristocracy. Kiton challenged Brioni and Canali, and raised the bar for using fine fabrics. This rivalry between the northern and southern Italian design houses pushed creativity that we can all be thankful for. I know I am, and I have thanked Ciro personally. These suits are impeccable.

Level VI- in a class by itself

Brioni—Brioni has always been for aristocrats. A quarter of the production consists of made-to-measure tailored suits for an elite 25,000 customers. I am happy to say I am one of them. Trump, James Bond(post 1995), Willie Brown, Royalty, John Gotti, and many successful Bank Robbers are also customers. Ready-to-wear suits run from $3,600 to $5,500, and the custom-tailored from $4,000 to $24,000. I have been telling them to raise their prices for years…….

Did you think I was going to recommend cheap suits? Do me a favor….A $200 suit looks like a cheap suit, but a $1000.00 suit makes you look like a Million Bucks…..that makes sense……Right? This should help every upwardly mobile G update their wardrobe……The Rest is up to you…..

Click Here to Buy Dressing the Man: Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion by Alan Flusser

Click Here to Buy Clothes and the Man: The Principles of Fine Men’s Dress by Alan Flusser

Michael Porfirio Mason
AKA The Peoples Champ
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26 Comments on "G Manifesto tip of the week 10/5/05: Suits"

  1. The G Manifesto
    Alejandro Ruiz
    29/10/2005 at 2:10 am Permalink

    what about bespoke?

  2. The G Manifesto
    The G Manifesto
    31/10/2005 at 3:44 pm Permalink

    Great question. We will talk about custom suits down the road. keep reading.


  3. The G Manifesto
    01/11/2005 at 1:09 am Permalink

    super 120’s beeyotch!

  4. The G Manifesto
    01/11/2005 at 5:37 pm Permalink

    I love the parts about house of Gucci, Brioni, and Kiton!

  5. The G Manifesto
    21/02/2006 at 12:16 am Permalink

    I apperciate the review. Ill call you soon, I have some suits for you to look at.

  6. The G Manifesto
    28/03/2006 at 1:19 am Permalink

    I met you at a party in hollywood once and you ditched me for some spanish girl. you missed out.

  7. The G Manifesto
    Gianni Agnelli
    18/05/2006 at 7:59 pm Permalink

    il consiglio eccellente per la gioventù di oggi

  8. The G Manifesto
    The Devil Wears Prada
    29/05/2006 at 8:49 pm Permalink

    The Devil Wears Prada

  9. The G Manifesto
    04/06/2006 at 8:05 am Permalink

    I love Brioni.

    Exceptionally Valuable.

  10. The G Manifesto
    15/06/2006 at 4:21 pm Permalink

    What about Attolini, Borrelli, Incotex, Lamatta, Roberto Cavalli?

  11. The G Manifesto
    Green tea
    11/07/2006 at 2:59 pm Permalink

    good advice on how to dress sharp

  12. The G Manifesto
    Shop Femina
    14/07/2006 at 7:10 pm Permalink

    Great historical tidbits about the top fashion icons.

  13. The G Manifesto
    The Last Playboy
    25/10/2006 at 3:32 pm Permalink

    Just got a brioni made with escorial. Sick.

  14. The G Manifesto
    10/11/2006 at 11:49 pm Permalink

    I like dior mens suits

  15. The G Manifesto
    14/04/2007 at 7:41 pm Permalink

    I appreciate your thorough review of world class suit designers. Made to measure is to custom made like grape juice is to wine. A world class tailor (independent) of course, would be where I would choose to drop my stacks on a one of a kind suit. Oh and definitely go with loro piana fabric. You also forgot to mention the power of monograming. Why pay to make somebody else’s name famous.



  16. The G Manifesto
    Armani suit king
    21/06/2007 at 11:08 pm Permalink

    this is a great guide to mens suits, you need to put more like this toghther homey

  17. The G Manifesto
    02/07/2007 at 3:59 pm Permalink

    I have been wearing Jay Kos almost exclusivly. Kiton ties and Brioni shirts.

  18. The G Manifesto
    27/08/2007 at 10:38 pm Permalink

    I wore a 2-button suit from the Mens Wearhouse to my last job interview and I got the job.

    What kind of dope drops $5,000 on a pants and jacket?

  19. The G Manifesto
    22/11/2007 at 11:46 am Permalink

    Real men wear bespoke. Ready-to-wear and made-to-measure will always be underneath bespoke. I would rather wear a bespoke suit of average cloth than a made-to-measure Brioni or a read-to-wear Zegna.

  20. The G Manifesto
    The G Manifesto
    26/11/2007 at 3:08 pm Permalink

    agreed about bespoke.


  21. The G Manifesto
    02/07/2008 at 8:01 am Permalink

    Man the G is getting more press everyday http://leparvenue.blogspot.com/2008/07/suits.html
    top shelf writing on suits

  22. The G Manifesto
    02/07/2008 at 4:07 pm Permalink
  23. The G Manifesto
    Euro Tailors
    21/02/2009 at 12:36 pm Permalink

    Great blog!Thanks to today’s hi-tech world, now you can order bespoke suits and shirts online too. Surprised! You can choose from over 2000 fabrics with the latest styel as you wish.

  24. The G Manifesto
    Shailendra singh
    21/05/2009 at 11:36 pm Permalink

    Whether it is professional situation or personal, wearing the right suit is essential. And, when it comes to wearing attire for business purpose, business suit without doubt, is best choice.I always looking for new arrivals is mens suits.Thanks for nice information.

  25. The G Manifesto
    28/09/2009 at 4:04 am Permalink

    I have two suits. Both found. Both made in my country and both really nice. (Well I think so.) Original 1970’s gear.
    I can’t even afford a $200 suit but then the suits I have would be quite hard to replace,so would have to go bespoke.
    so yeah, I dig my suits big time, they fit like gloves.
    I am not a bigtime kind of person but I like to wear my suits out now and then.
    They make me feel like I am on a different plane.
    A good plane. I like that.
    Suit pride.

  26. The G Manifesto
    Jerry McJollyrancher
    22/08/2011 at 5:03 am Permalink

    You talk a lot about suits, but what about giving us some game on colognes that have a “Panty Dropping” like effect. 1

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