So you are an up and coming G on the rise, and you have decided to take the plunge into the world of Custom Suits.
Do it slow.
As tempting as it is to go to your tailor and hand him $45,000 in a CASH in a brown paper bag for 10 Custom Suits, don’t do it (CASH discount).
Over time, you are going to like different things about suits, ie Ticket pocket VS No Ticket Pocket, Peaked Lapels VS Notched Lapels, Straight Pockets VS Hacking Pockets, Center Vent VS Side Vents, Pinstripe VS Chalkstripe, etc etc etc
There is no way you are going to know the answers to all of these important questions until you have play tested some suits. And I mean “in the field”. While Swooping Fly Girls.
And your body may change from all the sparring you are doing.
You want your Custom Suits to be as ill as a convict who kills for “phone time”.
So like I said, take it slow and go one Custom Suit at a time.
He’s survived bankruptcy, two marital breakdowns and a persistent habit of referring to himself in the third person: Ozwald Boateng remains a force to be reckoned with. The first black tailor on Savile Row and former creative director of Givenchy, Boateng this month releases A Man’s Story, his 12-years-in-the-making film of his remarkable career. “I’m not nervous about the film, I’m excited – it’s like the first time I sold a suit,” he explains to GQ.com, sitting in an elegant café in London’s Mayfair. “I was always the youngest one around. When I went to Paris for my first catwalk show I was always the kid. Now I’m 45 years old. I’ve got mileage in the tank.” Here he explains how men should wear colour, why Giorgio Armani still inspires him and why everyone should follow the sartorial example of ageing rockers…
Confidence can sometimes be misconstrued as arrogance.
Shirt collars are very important to me. Putting a very soft shirt collar with a formal suit doesn’t work for me at all.
The shoulder line is key on a bespoke suit. Once you have a strong understanding of that, the rest flows from there.
The idea of an ill-fitting suit is something I cannot register. If I register it once then it goes off and destroys! It starts interfering with the mainframe of my computer. It’s like dust in the lens – you grow accustomed to the dust and it starts building up.
Dressing well on a budget is about what we call “strategic shopping”. Spot what you like and then be first in the queue when the sale comes. Be patient enough to rummage through the rails. Sort your basics out and then save up for the key pieces. Make sure you always spend money on shoes though.
The most common style mistake men make? The guy who sits down with his buttons closed and doesn’t know he has to relax the jacket. I understand that the harness of the jacket creates [a particular] shape but there are some rules. Release the button.
If your suit is not handmade, get the other elements really right. Make sure your shirt is pressed and has that sharpness of line. It demonstrates that you pay attention to the way you look.
Style is about consistency and not having just one great day or one great photograph. Paul Bettany always looks good. He’s got a good presence about him. I haven’t seen him slouch and it’s easy to slouch.
‘A Man’s Story’ Preview – Ozwald Boateng documentary film
Casino – that movie really sang for me. It was beautifully shot and you could feel the colours jump off the screen. They must have been in my store when they did that film! The suits were immaculate and there was real attention to detail about the clothes – when [De Niro's] sitting down he doesn’t want to get his trousers creased. If you love what you wear, that’s what you do.
The rulebook says for black tie it should be a black suit with a satin lapel. But there are lots of things you can do to make it different. I like to play with the traditional themes – it doesn’t have to be black, so I’ve got my signature dark purple tux. It’s a bit boring that the women have all the opportunity and the guys don’t.
Life + TImes: There’s a very dangerous aspect to your clothing. Where does this come from?
Duncan Quinn: I suspect the edge lies in the underlying inspirations for everything I do…Michael Caine’s great and iconic movies from the 1960′s, Ian Fleming’s James Bond, The Who, The Clash, The Jam, The Rolling Stones and The Sex Pistols, but probably also having grown up with a father who hails from post-war Glasgow and was in the Flying Squad at Scotland Yard, as well as a guy in France who taught me about wine, food and life and who left home several days a week in the small hours with two loaded .45 automatics.
L+T: Who are your top three — living, dead or fictional — style icons?
DQ: Jack Carter: How could you not love the man who said, “You’re a big man, but you’re in bad shape. With me it’s a full time job. Now behave yourself.” He was hard as nails and dressed to kill. Literally. Steve McQueen: He was just a real man’s man. Cars, bikes, booze and cigarettes all wrapped up in clothing that fitted his aura so well it created an icon. Enzo Ferrari: He was probably responsible for the largest number of iconic and beautifully crafted motor vehicles since the creation of the internal combustion engine. His creations have already stood the test of time and are influential on anyone and everyone who loves beautiful feats of engineering today. Try putting a 250 GTO in a room and keeping people away from it.
L+T: If you could give one tip to the stylistically challenged, what would It be?
DQ: Find your style, which is that which you feel comfortable with, not someone else’s. Then turn the volume up a little on the things that make you “you,” whether it is yellow socks or bright green oversize glasses. Then you’ll have your own style. And no matter what you rock you’ll feel confident and thus look amazing.
L+T: Do you believe ZZ-Top was correct when they sang, “Every girl’s crazy about a sharp dressed man?”
DQ: Absolutely without a question of a doubt. Which is why we always joke that our suits come with a “get laid guarantee.” It has never failed.
A lot of people ask me questions about Custom Suits.
Well, before you buy one, watch this excellent video about Ozwald Boateng.
I typically make a stop by his Savile Row shop every summer in London. Cool cats they are.
Style is confidence.
Style is respect.
Style is personal.
Style is passion.
Style is seduction.
Style is sensual.
Style is creativity.
Style is individual.
Style is success.
Style is power.
Style is instinct.
In today’s age, the Tailor is an Endangered Species. These cats are old. And sadly, dying off. (Kind of like what Jim Rogers says about farmers and one of the reasons why the Agriculture sector is a solid long term play for your Bankroll).
I personally, don’t want to see that happen.
America is in pretty bad shape. One of many reasons we are in this position is because we don’t make anything anymore.
Last year, I moved over to an American Tailor. (Well, I am kind of lying, I still go to Savile Row every year to pick up some Custom Suits). My tailor is a legend in The Game and has made suits for Cary Grant and Frank Sinatra (and I won’t say any more because I don’t want to give away who he is.)
He charges a grip, but I would gladly pay double knowing how well they work. Hell, triple.
Bottom line, which would you rather wear?
A Custom Suit, made in The USA?
Or a glittery T-shirt and tight jeans made in China?
(If you answered the latter, go kill yourself. Or better yet, give me your address.)
Bruce Lee rocks the pocket square perfect. Straight across. Matching with the tie can pretty dope, as witnessed here, but far from necessary.
Dean Martin and Frank Sinatra always rock the pocket squares on point. Smoking is a nice Style touch as well.
Las Vegas visionary and all around super G, Bugsy Siegel knows how to rock the square. I have mentioned before that I have the same “large houndstooth check” jacket. I had to have it Custom Made, of course.
James Bond always rocks the square right. Real subtle and dope.
Chain smoker, International Playboy and Boxing Champ Mickey Walker wears the square with ease. So does Doc Kerns.
Sean Connery shows you how to relax: pocket square, feet up and with a smoke.
Serge Gainsbourg can rock the square.
Hollywood Playboy Warren Beaty rocks the square while playing Bugsy Siegel. Good casting job.
Super G Robert Shaw rocks the power square. Presence. And I don’t mean that Led Zeppelin album either. Or maybe I do.
Hollywood tough guy Humphrey Bogart busts a decent square.
Marcello Mastroianni rocks the gun, the flower and the square. Watch La Dolce Vita.
Here is a little breakdown for 2012 by the cat who basically predicted the Occupy Wall Street Movement:
One megatrend looms on the near horizon. And we forecast that when it strikes, it will be a shock felt around the world. Hyperbole it’s not! Our research has revealed that at the very highest levels of government this megatrend has been seriously discussed. Read on:
1. Economic Martial Law: Given the current economic and geopolitical conditions, the central banks and world governments already have plans in place to declare economic martial law … with the possibility of military martial law to follow.
2. Battlefield America: With a stroke of the Presidential pen, language was removed from an earlier version of the National Defense Authorization Act, granting the President authority to act as judge, jury and executioner. Citizens, welcome to “Battlefield America.”
3. Invasion of the Occtupy: 15 years ago, Gerald Celente predicted in his book Trends 2000 that prolonged protests would hit Wall Street in the early years of the new millennium and would spread nationwide. The “Occtupy” is now upon us, and it is like nothing history has ever witnessed.
4. Climax Time: The financial house of cards is collapsing, and in 2012 many of the long-simmering socioeconomic and geopolitical trends that Celente has accurately forecast will come to a climax. Some will arrive with a big bang and others less dramatically … but no less consequentially. Are you prepared? And what’s next for the world?
5. Technocrat Takeover: “Democracy is Dead; Long Live the Technocrat!” A pair of lightning-quick financial coup d’états in Greece and Italy have installed two unelected figures as head of state. No one yet in the mainstream media is calling this merger of state and corporate powers by its proper name: Fascism, nor are they calling these “technocrats” by their proper name: Bankers! Can a rudderless ship be saved because technocrat is at the helm?
6. Repatriate! Repatriate!: It took a small, but financially and politically powerful group to sell the world on globalization, and it will take a large, committed and coordinated citizens’ movement to “un-sell” it. “Repatriate! Repatriate!” will pit the creative instincts of a multitude of individuals against the repressive monopoly of the multinationals.
7. Secession Obsession: Winds of political change are blowing from Tunisia to Russia and everywhere in between, opening a window of opportunity through which previously unimaginable political options may now be considered: radical decentralization, Internet-based direct democracy, secession, and even the peaceful dissolution of nations, offering the possibility for a new world “disorder.”
8. Safe Havens: As the signs of imminent economic and social collapse become more pronounced, legions of New Millennium survivalists are, or will be, thinking about looking for methods and ways to escape the resulting turmoil. Those “on-trend” have already taken measure to implement Gerald Celente’s 3 G’s: Gold, Guns and a Getaway plan. Where to go? What to do? Top Trends 2012 will guide the way.
9. Big Brother Internet: The coming year will be the beginning of the end of Internet Freedom: A battle between the governments and the people. Governments will propose legislation for a new “authentication technology,” requiring Internet users to present the equivalent of a driver’s license and/or bill of health to navigate cyberspace. For the general population it will represent yet another curtailing of freedom and level of governmental control.
10. Direct vs. Faux Democracy: In every corner of the world, a restive populace has made it clear that it’s disgusted with “politics as usual” and is looking for change. Government, in all its forms – democracy, autocracy, monarchy, socialism, communism – just isn’’t working. The only viable solution is to take the vote out of the hands of party politicians and institute Direct Democracy. If the Swiss can do it, why can’t anyone else?
11. Alternative Energy 2012: Even under the cloud of Fukushima, the harnessing of nuclear power is being reinvigorated by a fuel that is significantly safer than uranium and by the introduction of small, modular, portable reactors that reduce costs and construction time. In addition, there are dozens of projects underway that explore the possibility of creating cleaner, competitively priced liquid fuels distilled from natural sources. Plan to start saying goodbye to conventional liquid fuels!
12. Going Out in Style: In the bleak terrain of 2012 and beyond, “Affordable sophistication” will direct and inspire products, fashion, music, the fine arts and entertainment at all levels. US businesses would be wise to wake up and tap into the dormant desire for old time quality and the America that was.
Finally a G (International Playboy) in a Modern Movie
One of the things that hurts the modern International Playboy is that International Playboys are not represented in Modern day cinema. Men in movies today are always weesh (no wonder I don’t hardly ever sit through modern day movie garbage).
This hurts us, since we don’t have “The Hollywood Effect” in our favor, that is, girls today have no frame of reference for us modern day International Playboys.
Well, here is a movie with a G:
The movie is called The Buisness, it it is well worth buying.
The part played by Charlie was so realistically done, that I had to do some research on the cat, because no actor ponce could play an International Playboy so convincingly.
Turns, out, the actor, Tamer Hassan, was a boxer, owns a boxing gym (or did) and owned nightclubs before he was acting.